What does vitamin c derivative mean?
May 21, 2025
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vitamin c derivative History
Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is an antioxidant. It can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, inhibit the production of melanin, and play a role in whitening. It can also eliminate free radicals in the skin, protect collagen, play an antioxidant and anti-aging effect, but also can protect other antioxidants, such as vitamin A, vitamin E, unsaturated fatty acids, is a more versatile ingredient.
Deficiencies in vitamin C
1.vitamin C stability is poor, is not conducive to preservation and application, need to reach a certain concentration to work, the PH value of the whole product has requirements (note: in skin care products, the pH of vitamin C is often lower than 5, generally maintain its stability below 3.5; In addition, at pH below 3.5, vitamin C loses its ionic charge and better penetrates the stratum corneum. .)
2.high concentration of vitamin C because of the PH value, for sensitive damaged skin has some stimulation, just on the face will have obvious fever and tingling.
3.vitamin C has dyeing, some people with thicker keratin and more oil are easy to produce a feeling of "yellow".
Scientists have been developed to change the molecular structure of vitamin C to make it more stable, and the effect will not be poor, which has different kinds of VC derivatives.
Types of vitamin C derivatives
Common ones include vitamin C phosphate, ascorbic acid glucoside (AA-2G), 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (EAC), ascorbic acid palmitate (AA6P), ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate (VC-IP), etc. Although all of them are derived from vitamin C, they all play their own roles.
Magnesium ascorbate phosphate/sodium ascorbate phosphate(SAP/MAP))
Magnesium ascorbate phosphate (MAP) and sodium ascorbate phosphate (SAP) are relatively stable salts. On the one hand, it protects them from oxidation, but on the other hand, it prevents them from playing an antioxidant role. So their efficacy depends on whether they are converted to ascorbic acid. In addition, phosphate salts need to be used under weak alkaline conditions (most vitamin C and derivatives work under acidic conditions), so sometimes it is not good to use with other ingredients, but it can be used with nicotinamide. "In cosmetics, the usual dose is MAP≤3% and SAP0.2-5%.
Ascorbic acid Glucoside (AA-2G)
It is often combined with other whitening ingredients, such as nicotinamide. It can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and reduce the production of pigment, but the dose in cosmetics is ≤2%.
Applicable Population
Suitable for vitamin C entry users, sensitive muscle can try.
3-O-ethyl ascorbic Acid (EAC)
It is currently the most stable vitamin C derivative. With two soluble, better permeability than water-soluble vitamin C, hydrophilic and lipophilic, suitable for different solvents, can be used in water, can also be used in oily solutions, but also greatly reduce the difficulty of the formulator. The stability of EAC is very high compared with other vitamin C qualified derivatives
Tetraisopalmitate of ascorbic acid(VC-IP)
It goes completely from water soluble to fat soluble, lipophilic and therefore much better skin permeability and absorption than vitamin C. It also overcomes the three shortcomings of vitamin C, which are afraid of heat, light and tide, and the stability is higher than vitamin C. The conversion efficiency of the previous phosphate salt to vitamin C in vitro was about 50%, but the VC-IP could reach 84%.
Ascorbic acid palmitate (AA6P)
Oil is more soluble than vitamin C, resulting in a substantial increase in skin absorption, better than the several previously mentioned.
But the stability is very poor. In both water-in-oil and water-in-oil systems, it can be reduced by more than half after 14 days, and it is completely reduced after 28 days. Compared with other generation of vitamin C derivatives, the stability is also relatively poor, so it needs to work hard on the packaging.
ascorbic acid polypeptide
This component is relatively new, less data can be provided, and both absorption and conversion rates are unknown. It can be broken down into vitamin C and peptides after absorption and is more stable than vitamin C itself. The irritation is not strong, and the use of a wide range, with other antioxidant or peptide products, may have better efficacy.
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